Craft Week 2017 | Tracey Neuls | Retrouvius
Tracey’s shoe designs are timeless yet contemporary, also using a combination of familiar and traditional materials.
Here are some soundbites from the talk...
"My background is in textiles and clothing design. I try to incorporate these techniques into my shoe designing. Hand stitching at the back counter, ruching at the toe, which is not common in shoe making and normally a sign of a badly made shoe, but made by hand, the result is very elegant! We insert textile into the sole unit, the way the material is left to fold, results in each pair being unique.
The top of the foot is an area that is very standardised in footwear making. I like to look at the void above the foot and how hand crafting can be worked into the process of making. Our signature Big Top has hand draped leather from the upper coming down over the heel in one piece of leather. This was a Tracey Neuls creation from 15 years ago and is now a standard construction within the footwear industry and the 3D wedges inserted into making a sculptural bow, takes such craftsmanship.
Burnt heels!? Well, in my driveway at our Marylebone shop there was a random piece of charred wood. Almost heel like in shape. Then a few weeks later, the actual shoe shaped piece of wood was sitting in my fireplace burning away. This was the basis of one of my favourite collections where I personally burnt and lacquered the heels for the collection.
I like the idea of women getting together and knitting whilst putting the world right. Through out the years, I have used knitting in many forms.The first use of it was quite literal, with wool and a tea cosy type of design. We got together a collective of women from London to Norfolk knitting our shoe uppers. Fun but also hugely challenging incorporating every day knitters into a world of delivery dates, quality control and passing on to another manufacturer to finalise the product.
The leather has been knit by men and knit by men. I quite liked the idea of men taking on the role that is traditionally held by women. The technique is interesting in that a hide is cut in circular lines to create the length of ‘yarn’ needed. I was once was beach combing and found a tangle of neon fishing line. We began knitting the fishing line, forming a fine netting over the shoe and foot.
I start any new form using plasticine. For me, the smell brings me back to a child like innocence where the inspirations go from the heart to the hands. I like the raw creation rather than a distillation of images or things that I have seen in the shoe world. My ideas come from a place other than fashion influences. Plasticine as a moulding keeps the inspiration very unique. We went through a stage of being knocked off a lot. From big brands to Chinese manufacturers. This spurred on a very hand made heel that could not be mass produced easily and had to have the touch of hand.
Just an example of one of the plasticine sole iterations that lead up to the latest rubber sole we launched last year. The ‘Heart15’ range like Dean etc.. My starting point is never a computer sketch or a design of another shoe. Working this way creates a timelessness that resonates through out the collections. Our longest standing GEEK in reflective has been around for over 10 years and never goes out of style. The ‘Heart15’ is a reincarnation of a shape that was designed in my college year and featured in my first ever collection in winter 2000.