The Timeless Duet: How Music Shapes Fashion and Style
It’s no secret that music plays a pivotal role in both the fashion zeitgeist and the very perception of certain garments. From Kiss’s towering high heels influencing the avant-garde scene à la Rick Owens, to Hedi Slimane’s Portrait Of series for Celine, which captured famous musicians such as Bob Dylan, Julian Casablancas, and Kevin Parker, the connection between sound and style is undeniable. The symbiotic relationship between music and fashion also shines bright in Tracey Neuls’ design ethos, with the ‘Dutronc’ harkening back to the effortless chic of Mick Jagger.
Mick Jagger and The Rolling Stones performing live on stage.
Photograph by Richard E. Aaron/Redferns
Tracey grew up immersed in the brooding aesthetics and somber tones of the alternative scene. Her own personal style harkens back to the gothic swagger of Robert Smith, whose look blends darkness, allure, and outcastism through draping shirts, dark eyeliner, and eye-catching red lipstick. Smith’s aesthetic wasn’t just an extension of his art, it was a visual manifestation of the entire goth subculture and the emotional depth seen in The Cure’s magnum opus, Disintegration. During the Disintegration tour, Smith’s wardrobe of flowing black shirts casted haunting silhouettes under the smoky haze of the stage, whilst the spotlights captured his hair and makeup, a living embodiment of the music. His fusion of music and fashion influenced the goth subculture for decades, with fans not just listening to Disintegration, but wearing it, adorned in all-black get-ups and shirts emblazoned with the album cover. The gothic movement, both in sound and style, flourished in this symbiotic relationship, with Robert Smith’s defining look influencing his contemporaries, and modern goths today.
The Cure live on August 20th, 1989, at the Giants Stadium in New Jersey.
Photograph by Matthew J. Schwartz. Source: Pen and Camera
Rewinding back from the gothic and into the 1920s, Flapper Girls stole the spotlight in daring and loose-fitting dresses, challenging the strict conservatism of the 1910s. Intertwining with the emerging jazz scene, both saw outrage from conservative white audiences, who aimed to defend the rigid societal norms and racial hierarchies of the time. Forty years forward, the Mods of London reigned in the era of Italian tailoring, skinny ties, slim trousers, and polo shirts for the men, whilst women turned to Mary Quant’s playful designs. This diverse subculture celebrated immigration and new-found genres such as Ska and R&B. Then along comes the 90s, where the gritty, sweaty, and torn t-shirts of Kurt Cobain inspired another generation of outcasted youths. Ripped jeans and distressed sweaters echoed the sounds of distorted guitars and angst-filled lyrics, an era still referenced today in both high-end luxury and fast-fashion knockoffs. Furthermore, newly emerging brands like Undercover harnessed the raw energy of grunge to create bold, avant garde spectacles for the runway, imbued with powerful messages of political rebellion and self-expression. At the heart of every musical revolution beats fashion, and at the centre of every fashion revolution, music echoes, coexisting in perfect harmony.
Mary Quant showing off her models’ footwear and fashion in London, 1967.
Photograph from PA, PA Archive. Source: The Independent
Today, a surplus of social media trends and popular musicians have cranked up the volume of this symbiosis. Fans, with unbridled access to TikTok, Pinterest, and Instagram, are immediately immersed in the newest looks from their favourite artists, with the internet creating an instant worldwide connection between music and fashion. Artists with immense cultural capital such as Taylor Swift and Billie Eilish hold the power to catapult small brands into trend stardom, and artists across all genres, from rap to pop to rock, have echoed in a new wave of gender nonconformity, with artists such as Harry Styles, and Grian Chatten of Fontaines D.C. leading the charge for men in skirts. For over a hundred years music and fashion have danced together, birthing new identities and challenging societal norms. From Flappers to Goths, music undoubtedly continues to influence the fashion zeitgeist, with our own personal style evoking the sounds and styles of our favourite artists.
Written by Jason Cassar for Tracey Neuls Online